Frank Reenskaug rocking chair


The gold wool cushions on this teak rocker by Danish designer Frank Reenskaug were original and they look pretty good here.  But they had some stains and the foam was deteriorating.


The new cushions are upholstered in a tweedy oatmeal wool.   (photo courtesy of Home Anthology)


Someone had replaced the original elastic webbing with jute webbing, which had worn out completely.  I replaced it with new elastic webbing which should last another few decades.


The back cushion is held in place by leather loops.

The Belgian wool fabric is about as Danish Modern as you can get!











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33 Responses to Frank Reenskaug rocking chair

  1. Jason says:

    How did you go about making the new cushions, or did you just have a pattern? I have a beautiful Wikkelso rocking chair that I’d like to make cushions for and was wondering how you might get started.


    • MCR says:

      I had some original cushions so I just used those as a pattern. You could probably work out a pattern on your own just by looking at photos online and doing mockups with paper. Good luck!

  2. Barbara Booth says:

    Could I order new Reenskaug cushions from you? The fabric shown here would be perfect. I need two sets. I have been stymied by this for so long, I am not price sensitive.

    Barbara in Los Angeles

    • MCR says:


      I’m sorry, I don’t do any shipping.

      I figured out the dimensions of the cushions by looking at photos online and by measuring the chair itself. I’m sure if you can find a good local upholsterer, you can get them made. Maharam’s Hallingdal fabric is actually nicer than the fabric I used and comes in a ton of gorgeous colors. It’s made in Denmark and was designed by Nanna Ditzel. You can order swatches at Good luck!

    • Veronica S. says:

      Barbara was very kind to help me as much as she could with thickness ideas for cushions. I have also been trying to figure out how, who and where I could have these cushions replaced. Finally after speaking to a couple on Etsy who specializes making mid century modern chair cushions (but at the time not this particular chair) they were able to work with me to find a solution. They are starting to design cushions in custom colors for this chair.

  3. curtis says:

    I have a Frank Reenskaug rocking chair. (#182)

    I need a replacement cross dowl and bolt for the side of the seat base. the dimensions are 1.3 mm diam. 1.2mm depth, and the bolt is .4mm x 7.2 mm L.

    Any idea where I could obtain this hardware?

    Thank You Curtis

    • MCR says:

      Sorry, I really just do upholstery, not frame repairs. Try asking on the forum at Good luck!

  4. Veronica says:

    I purchased the same chair without the cushions. I have searched high and low for information about the cushions but can’t find any useful info. Would you be so kind to provide measurements of the cushions.

    • MCR says:

      Sorry, I didn’t save the exact measurements and I don’t have access to one of these chairs right now. But you can figure out the shape easily enough–the seat cushion is the same shape as the actual chair seat and the back can be figured out by gauging the depth of the curves from the many photos available online. Thickness for the back is 1″ and the seat can be 1″ to 2″ depending on how much comfort you want.

  5. Sarah says:

    What is elastic webbing and how can I get it? Do you just weave it and attach it to the seat? How do you attach it and how do you get it stretched tight when doing so? Thank you!

    • MCR says:

      Elastic webbing is just that–stretchy webbing. You can find it by googling. Attach the front to back pieces first, then weave each side piece over and under these strips, staple one end, stretch it a bit and staple the other end. Do not cut strips before stapling; you need the excess for something to hold as you stretch. A webbing stretcher (google it) is a useful tool for this.

      I use a pneumatic stapler to attach the webbing to the frame. You can use an electric staple gun but it’s not as effective. You can also use heavy upholstery tacks but they’re hard to hammer down while holding the webbing taut. Good luck.

      • Sarah says:

        Thank you so much!!! I am excited to work on this!

      • Sarah says:

        Why is the pneumatic stapler more effective than the electric staple gun? My husband is looking to buy some kind of combination staple/nail gun and I am wondering if I could use that.

        • Sarah says:

          I apologize, I keep thinking of more questions! What width of webbing do you recommend? What I see on the chair of what may be original remnants are about 1.5″ wide. There are five from front to back and three from side to side. Thank you again!

          • MCR says:

            As far as I know, elastic webbing only comes in two widths: 2″ for the black woven elastic and slightly narrower than that for Pirelli webbing. Either is ok.

        • MCR says:

          The pneumatic stapler shoots the staples all the way into the wood, even the most dense hardwoods. An electric staple gun doesn’t have enough power to shoot the staples all the way in, so you have to hammer them in the rest of the way. Also, pneumatic staples are thinner gauge which lessens the danger of them splitting the wood along the grainline if you put a bunch of them in a row (which is often what you need to do in upholstery).

  6. Sarah says:

    I am also wondering how you can identify a Frank Reenskaug rocking chair. I picked up a chair that looks like this on the side of the road, on garbage day in an affluent neighborhood. I found your site while looking for a way to repair the seat. I find it hard to believe that I would have found something like this on the garbage pile, but stranger things have happened!

    • MCR says:

      As far as I know, the Reenskaug rocker has not been copied by other companies. Compare yours to photos of the real thing and be sure you are looking at yours from the same angle as in the photo.

      People throw out valuable stuff all the time. It’s amazing, but it happens. Most of them probably have no idea that the stuff is worth anything and some of them don’t care anyway!

      • Sarah says:

        It really is amazing! I took another look and I am pretty sure this is my chair. I can see the remnants of what I guess is elastic webbing, perhaps a bit dried out. I replaced the cushions shortly after I found it, but still have what I think could be the original fabric covers, off-white, ribbed fabric. The loops are still on the back cushion, but the zipper is broken on one or both. Now I have to really take care in making new cushions! I’ve been meaning to get back to that neighborhood on garbage day. It seems now that I really do have to!

        By the way, thank you for your prompt responses!

        • Marianne says:

          Great find! I just found this same chair at a yard sale for $20 – but free is definitely better! I found this site from Google because I am trying to find out what webbing to use. (My chair needs new webbing and upholstery for the cushions.) I think my husband and I can do that ourselves. Thanks for all the helpful information!

  7. Kate says:

    Hi MCR,

    What size staple would you recommend for stapling elastic webbing to a wooden lounge chair frame? I intend to purchase a pneumatic stapler for this job. I picked up vintage lounge chairs someone had left on the curb and the original webbing is missing or damaged. The information you share on this site is so valuable and much appreciated.


    • MCR says:

      I think 1/2″ is fine. That’s the length of the “legs” of the staple. If you don’t already have a stapler in mind, I recommend the Porter-Cable US58 upholstery stapler. It’s very reasonably priced on Amazon. I don’t have any business or personal connection to the company or to Amazon, I’m just really happy with that stapler. Mine has never failed me in the four years that I’ve had it.

  8. Christine says:

    I’m about to tackle making new cushions for my Reenskaug rocker. Can you advise which type of foam you would recommend? I will probably use 2″ foam for the seat and 1″ for the back, but am unsure which density is best for this type of cushion. Thanks!

    • MCR says:

      I use firm density for the seat and medium for the back.

      Watch my site and/or my Facebook page—I will be offering ready-made cushions for this chair in the near future!

  9. jennifer buck says:

    Hello, I just bought one of these chairs. I’m wondering if there is any way to determine when it was made, and how much of it is original. My seat “straps” are made from leather and there are metal (allen wrench?) screws at some of the joints where the wood comes together. When I look at pictures online, some have the dark metal screws and others don’t look like they do. Just curious to learn more about the chair! Thanks!

  10. Jan Hilton says:

    I am looking for parts for my mothers Reenskaug rocker and hope someone has found someplace to order replacement parts. In particular, the screws for the seat. The rocker was disassembled years ago and some of the metric hardware is lost. I have the cushions. It’s just the metic screws and grub cuffs (?) plus a metal piece that goes in the support brace for the seat. I think the seat screws go into it, but I really don’t understand how to put this together!

    Also, if anyone can send me a photo of the seat assembly I would be eternally grateful!

    • MCR says:

      I don’t sell parts at all and am not familiar with all the different hardware for even the more common Danish chairs. But if you post your message on the Repairs section of the Forum at, someone may have the information. There are a lot of helpful, knowledgeable people there. Be sure to include photos of the exact parts if possible. I know that it’s possible to get all kinds of metric screws and bolts so you should be able to complete the chair. Good luck!

  11. Liliana Basile says:

    I have a Frank Reenskaug rocking chair and I need to adjust the screws.
    I do not know what to use to adjust them. Which kind of screw?

    • MCR says:

      They are hex head bolts, so use a hex screwdriver. They’re most likely metric. If you have one of the little hex wrenches that comes with a lot of IKEA flat pack furniture, that will probably work. If not, you can buy a set of metric hex wrenches for under $10 at any hardware store. They’re also called allen wrenches or hex keys. Just be sure to get metric, not imperial. If you use one that is a hair too small for the bolt, it can wear down the head of the bolt.

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