Grete Jalk teak lounge chair

This beautiful teak armchair by Danish designer Grete Jalk is the one you don’t see so often.  I got it with no cushions and the webbing redone kind of incorrectly.


The zig-zag weave pattern looks a little odd but it is correct.  What’s incorrect is the use of jute webbing that was cut lengthwise to the suitable width but that left it with fraying edges.  The original webbing was an extruded vinyl.


Since the vinyl webbing is not available, I used heavy cotton webbing.   I realized after this photo was taken that the front rail had been put on upside down a long time ago, so that was redone before proceeding.  (The chair is of knock-down construction so this wasn’t too hard.)


The finished chair with sculpted foam cushions covered in a very soft nubby gray fabric.  It really gives an understated elegance to this classic Danish chair.


This fabric is bulky so I did top-stitched seams instead of the usual welt.  This is a nicer finish on the rounded edges anyway.


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16 Responses to Grete Jalk teak lounge chair

  1. Hi!

    I have several lounge chairs designed by Grete Jalk for Jeppesen, in teak and oak.
    Searching on the web made me pass your site. I’m a collector of mainly Belgian and Scandinavian furniture. I was wondering about your ‘sculpted’ foam cushions, do you buy these pre-formed?

    Thanks in advance!


  2. Marcos says:

    Nous sommes intéressés pour la confection de 2 ensembles de coussins pour des fauteuils identiques à la photo, livrez vous en France et à quel prix ?

  3. Kevin says:

    Hi There, I have the identical chair from Grete Jalk for Jeppesen. I was wondering if the profile of the cushions you made are close to the original? I know newer versions of these chairs had a different style cushion. Also, I have the matching Sofa for this. Does that sofa have a one piece seat cushion, or 3 separate ones? Love the job you did on this piece. I wish you were closer…my chair would be on it’s way to you!

    • MCR says:


      Thanks, but I don’t know what the originals looked like. The owner of these requested this style cushion. I think it goes well with the frame!

      I don’t know about the sofa, either. Sorry! I would suggest a thorough internet image search. Usually you can tell if the cushions are original or not by the type of fabric and its condition. Also by consensus—if you see a bunch with the same style cushion with same dimensions and edge finish, they are probably originals.

  4. kate says:

    If I send you a photo could you help me to identify a chair? Kate

  5. Rasmus says:

    How did you finish the webbing? Stitching it perhaps?

    • MCR says:

      I used pneumatic staples to anchor the webbing to the frame.

      • Rasmus says:

        Thank you very much for your quick reply! Did you use rubber or flax / jute webbing? I have just bought a similar chair, but without the webbing:o)

        • MCR says:

          As stated in the text, I used cotton webbing. But jute or elastic might be fine. If you can find extruded vinyl webbing, great—otherwise you will have to use something else.

  6. Nicholas DiFeliciantonio says:

    I was curious to when you are doing fillets on the foam to make the edges round do you use a electric knife and then a disc sander? I think I saw you say in another rounded foam chair before and after you said hand carved.


    • MCR says:

      You can’t sand urethane foam. It’s too soft. I cut a V groove in the edge of the cushion and glue the edges of the V together. With very soft density foam in a thin cushion you can skip the cutting step.

  7. Brian Berman says:


    Is this the vinyl you’re referring to? If so, how do you secure them at each end?


    • MCR says:

      That’s not the same vinyl but maybe it would work, at least for awhile. I only saw a photo of a remnant of the original stuff and I didn’t keep a copy of it and I don’t even really remember what it looked like, only that I saw it. It’s been awhile!

      It was most likely secured by sticking a loop of the webbing through the slot at each end and then sticking a small dowel through the looped end. The diameter of the dowel plus the thickness of the two layers of webbing (one on each side) has to total more than the width of the slot, that way it can’t work its way through.

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