Contact MCR

Here are the kinds of things I am currently accepting for restoration:

  • dining chairs with upholstered seats/backs
  • chairs with woven paper cord seats/backs
  • small ottomans, footstools, benches, etc.

If you need a quote for redoing any of the above, email me a few photos and I’ll get back to you within a day or two.

I am still limiting work to those who can get their pieces to me in the Baltimore/DC area.  Sorry, no shipping!

If you’re not in the area but just want to get a general idea of what a particular job costs, please disclose that up front so I don’t spend time writing up my usual terms regarding pickup, dropoff, payment, etc.  Thanks.



41 Responses to Contact MCR

  1. Rhonda says:

    I have a set of 4 Danish Modern style teak chairs that I bought for $69 from Scan. May I please have an estimate of how much it would cost to reupholster, refoam, and “tighten.” I live in Montgomery County and would be able to drop them off. Your website would not send my message.

    • MCR says:

      Rhonda, I’ll send you a quote. Sorry about the contact form not working; I just checked it and it is working now but maybe it has a problem with certain servers.

  2. Elizabeth Mazza says:

    I left a request above in the contact MCR space re a Hans wegner chair that needs repair with a photo. thank you for your help.

  3. Diana says:

    hi. I tried to send an email regarding getting a quote for repair of a Hans Wegner CH25 but I kept getting validation errors. Can you send me an email and I can reply with photo? thanks very much. diana

  4. Connie Hussey says:

    Hello ~
    Hoping you can help me figure out how to fix a mid-century Gustav Thams swivel recliner. When the chair reclines – it overextends. The seat drops at an angle to the floor (there’s no footrest). There is one elastic band with a large plastic bead at one end that appears to fit somehow into one of two brackets with slots
    located level with the seat. Are you familiar with this type of setup? Any input you can offer would be greatly appreciated (& keep me from pulling any more of my hair out!). Thanks.
    Newberry, FL

    • MCR says:


      Sorry, I have no idea about that type of swivel base. You might try posting a query on the forum at Design Addict along with clear photos. There are some very helpful, knowledgeable people there who might be able to answer your questions.

  5. Laura Lien says:

    Can you tell me where I can order the paper cord for a hans wegner CH 25 chair? I currently live in Germany so will be reweaving the chair myself. Thank you

    • MCR says:

      Lauren, sorry but I don’t know specific international sources for Danish paper cord. I’m sure it’s available in Denmark, though. Try a Google search for Danish sources.

  6. Emily says:

    Hi! I am having trouble using the form – it keeps giving me an error. Can you please email me? I am looking for help refinishing two armchairs and a table. Thanks! Emily

  7. Lorna Tammerine says:

    I have a womb style chair with a swivel 5 leg base that sits low to the ground about 7″. Are taller ones 12″ available? Or is there a way to extend them?

  8. Hi,
    Would you know of a company in New Jersey that would restore my Shaw-walker
    desk chair?

    • MCR says:

      Sorry, I don’t have a directory of furniture restorers across the US. You might ask local dealers who they use.

  9. Stephanie says:

    Hi, I was wondering if you han any of the leather from a tan ply craft chair that you might have saved? I only need to redo the top section and possibly the arms. Let me know if you do. If not I would also like to know the section measurements when flat, if you know them for patterns. So I know what I might need to order. I tried to leave a message in the comments but it was very hard to type a message that you can not see. The form is kind of messed up.

    Thank you for any help you might be able to offer.


    • MCR says:

      I did not keep any of the leather from the chairs I redid because it was trashed and very cheap quality to begin with. It probably would not have been an exact color match to yours anyway, so don’t feel too badly!

      I don’t have any patterns for the replacement leather but you can just measure the existing parts and add 3-4″ on each side. That will give you plenty to grip as you staple the new leather into place, then you trim off the excess. If you decide to replace all of the leather, you will need about a 50 sq. ft. hide for one chair and ottoman. Good luck.

  10. Nick says:


    Would you be able to replace the old rattan on my four MR chairs with leather\? I have a total of four chairs — two with arms and two without arms.

    I wasn’t able to post via your contact form. Would appreciate an estimate.


  11. Anita Brockmann says:

    My original Wegener Papa bear chair needs to be reupholstered.
    Can you recommend a shop in the Keene, NH area? or anywhere in NH, VT, or the East Coast?

  12. Dyan Simon says:

    I have four mobler chairs with paper cord seats that are breaking. I ordered the cord from HHPerkins and found a series of YouTube videos by Caleb James. I just completed my first chair and I’m unhappy with how it looks. Do you have any tips on how to keep the cord from overlapping at times. I wish I could send you a picture of what I mean. I live in South Florida and no one around here does this kind of work which is why I’ve taken on this project. It has been kind of fun learning a new skill but I’m a perfectionist and I have unwoven it so many times attempting to get it perfect. My kids told me to just finish it which I did tonight. I’m hoping the next one will come out better and then I’ll redo this one.
    Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
    My brother lives in Baltimore.

    • MCR says:

      What weave are you doing? The basket weave found on most Danish chairs, or the one that’s like a traditional rush seat with four diagonal lines that meet in the center? When you say overlap I’m thinking it’s the latter, so please correct me if I’m wrong.

      I learned the first weave from “The Caner’s Handbook” by Jim Widess, available on Amazon or get a used copy on Ebay. I had a hard time with the rush style weave until I watched Caleb James’ series of 6 videos on it on youtube. You have to use LACED cord on this weave. The unlaced is a bit more dense and less flexible and it really doesn’t stay put on the corners very well.

      • Dyan Simon says:

        Thanks for responding. I also watched the Caleb James YouTube which helps. The beginning is easy and looks good but as I got further along the cord would sometimes end up crossing over in the under part.
        I am going to look for that book. Do you think wetting the cord when crossing over would creat a tighter grip?

  13. Steve Granger says:

    Good afternoon,

    I have an old plycraft chair I’m restoring and it has the three piece design head rest, back rest, and saddle. But on mine the back rest and saddle are one piece that they glued and fiber glassed the seams on the inside. Well unfortunately one side has cracked. I was wondering if you sold just the metal brackets the attach them. This problem has brought restoration to a halt. HELP!

    Thanks Steve G

    • MCR says:

      Sorry, I don’t sell parts for anything. The only thing I can suggest is that you check Ebay and other auction sites regularly for trashed chairs being sold for parts. Good luck.

  14. Siri says:

    Your website has been most informative and has helped me greatly in restoring the finish of my vintage Moller #84 papercord chairs. The teak oil with #0000 steel wool really brought out the beauty of the wood. Thank you for all the good advice! Now I have started to replace the broken paper cord seat on one of them. I watched the videos and the initial start was very good. The wrapping looked good and tight but the issue I have is with the actual weaving. Even though I have used each nail on the side rail twice the cord does not lie completely parallel which means the wraps on the side are at a slight angle. I have almost finished the weaving the seat but ran out of cord with a big gap at the end. I purchased the laced paper cord from HH Perkins and it should have been enough for one chair seat. Should I leave a bit more space between the strands when weaving? Any other tips on how to avoid this?
    Thank you very much for your advice.

    • MCR says:

      Thanks, I’m glad my info here was helpful for the refinishing.

      As for the cord—I buy the 10-11 lb coils of cord which I think do five Moller chairs but I don’t really keep track of it. I used to be able to do one seat with a 2 lb coil. Are you sure you started with a full coil?

      I never do two loops on each nail on the side rails. Most get two but some get one and some get three. You have to check the sides every few inches and pack the wraps towards the starting point. Use a soup spoon to do this—turn the chair upside down and hold the spoon in two both hands. Use the skinny part of the handle just before it widens into the bowl–push this against the cord wraps until you can’t push them any further. A spoon is the most comfortable tool for this and if you slip it will not gouge the cord the way a screwdriver or knife can.

      Some slant is ok. The back end of the side rails joins the back leg post at an angle. There will always be a small gap but it should only be 1/4″ or so.

      I always have to go back over the seat when i’m done weaving and even out the side-to-side strands so that there no glaring gaps between them. Sometimes the front-to-back strands get pulled to one side or the other a little bit and I straighten those out too. It’s a pain but it does make a nice seat in the end.

      I’m not sure what videos you are watching. I taught myself weaving from the book “Caner’s Handbook” by Jim Widess (ebay usually has used copies for cheap or get it on Amazon).

  15. Mr. Chair says:

    Hi there, I have a ’60s Plycraft Mr. Chair by Mulhauser with cushioned armrests. I started to re-upholster the arm cushion, when I noticed a material on the reverse side of the foam layer, which I am concerned may be asbestos. The material is goldish in color, flaxy, and fibrous-like. I’m not experienced enough to know, so I may decide to have the material tested. Does this sound like any material you may be familiar with in this chair? Or, do you know if Plycraft had used asbestos in the construction of their lounge chairs? Thanks in advance!

    • MCR says:

      It may be asbestos. I’ve never seen asbestos in Plycraft chairs or any other old furniture but the internet says it was sometimes used.

      You can always just pick a tiny bit of it off with some tweezers and hold it over a candle flame. If it burns, it’s not asbestos.

      • Solved! says:

        I put a small piece in a mason jar and lit it using a long barbecue lighter. The piece burned right up! Such a relief! Thanks! Back to DIY reupholstering.

        • MCR says:

          Glad to hear it! I bet it was jute. Jute matting was used a lot in less expensive furniture between the softer padding (foam, usually) and the wood frame. If you put foam directly onto the frame it will get permanently compressed around the edges. More expensive furniture had rubberized hog hair (sounds gross but it was processed pretty thoroughly first). Dense cotton batting of 1-2″ thickness was used a lot, too.

  16. Gene Sullivan says:

    Brilliant and beautiful is all I can say about the Wegner chairs you have woven. I think Wegner would concede that some of the beauty of his chairs lies in the stunning, simple and subtle beauty of this weave technique and, of course, its execution. I have referred a number of my friends to this site and they always say the same. I am using your nail-free technique to weave some chaises that I build for the deck and do not fully understand how you do the weave. It looks like you do a full wrap after each traverse but there are no spaces between each weave strand. Can you explain how you do this? Perhaps I am missing something from the photos but after trying it several ways, including “wrapping the wrap” (which does not hold) I am still confused. If you could explain it would make my day. Thank you.

    • MCR says:

      I highly recommend that you get a copy of “The Caner’s Handbook” by Jim Widess; you can find it on Amazon and there are usually some used copies for cheap on Ebay. It has very clear instructions and photos of how to do this style of weave. It doesn’t show this particular chair but if you follow the instructions for the Wegner CH23 dining chair with double side rails, you’ll be fine, just obviously don’t do the extra loop around the lower rail since there isn’t a lower rail on the folding lounge chair that you’re talking about.

      I learned how to do this style weave from this book. I actually wore my copy out.

      EDITED TO ADD: You mentioned using this weave on chairs for a deck. If you’re using Danish paper cord, be advised that it’s not meant for outdoor use. If the deck is enclosed, ok.

      • Gene Sullivan says:

        Thank you. I have this book by Jim Widess and have consulted it a number of times in the past and again for this project. He describes in Chapter 7 called, Danish Cord and Binder Weaving, a techniques for weaving a Split-railed chair and another technique for weaving a Single-railed chair with “L-nails” in Step 3 of the method, which starts on page 105. Both techniques are relatively straight forward. Your chair does not have Split-rails and, as far as I can see, there are no “L-nails” or other devices used in your chair. Yet you are able to wind the cord around each rail (I am referring to the sides of the chair back, for example) and continue left and right without leaving out a row. Perhaps I am unable to see the obvious in the photos you have posted. I tried overlapping the wraps, which works but is messy, and am wondering if you use 2 double stands and weave from both directions. But I still do not see how this can work to achieve the clean effect you have in your weave. Or am I missing something entirely? Can you describe the process briefly, please? I am sure other readers would also be interested in this technique.

        • gene sullivan says:

          I forgot to mention that I am using a synthetic polypropylene craft cord that feels like cotton when relaxed and more like sisal when pulled taut on the chairs. Found it on Etsy and there are tons of colors and sizes to choose from. Getting the tension right is difficult but it looks good and is said to weather as well as any other synthetic material. Only time will tell.

        • MCR says:

          You said you were “wondering if you use 2 double stands and weave from both directions”. YES. This weave is always done with a double strand. The photos on page 106 clearly show this. You loop the double strand around the side rail, then loop it again, then weave it across to the other side.

          As the book mentions, you have to pull the entire length of the double strand through the warp (the front-to-back strands) with each pass, and you must pull the entire length around the side rail twice before weaving across the seat again.

          And by the way, if you start with more than 50-60 of cord per length (25-30 ft when doubled), it will have a greater tendency to get tangled. If you do much shorter lengths, you’ll end up having to joint new lengths way more often and that’s kind of a pain in the neck to do. You may have more or less trouble with tangling when using synthetic cord, or maybe it’ll be the same as paper cord in that respect. I’ve never used it so I can’t advise; just be prepared to adjust if necessary.

          This video may be helpful. The weaving demo is at the very end starting at 5:03. It’s for a double side rail but the technique is the same, just no lower rail to wrap around.

          Cut 4-5 yards of cord, double it, and clamp the looped end to a side rail and practice with that until you’ve got it. once you figure it out you will see how simple it is.

        • gene sullivan says:

          I forgot to mention that I am using a synthetic polypropylene craft cord that feels like cotton when relaxed and more like sisal when pulled taut on the chairs. Found it on Etsy and there are tons of colors and sizes to choose from. Getting the tension right (I am a complete amateur at this) is difficult but it looks good and is said to weather as well as any other synthetic material. Only time will tell.

  17. Gene Sullivan says:

    Thank you for your reply. Once again, I still seem to have the same confusion. Wrapping from left to right, or right to left, with a double rail or a nail on a single rail is straight forward, and the beauty of it is that it lets me weave a strand without having gaps between each wrap. When I make a complete turn around the single rail and then wrap the rail again to come back in the opposite direction, there is a gap created opposite this wrap (between the wrap above and the wrap below it) that your technique does not create. You have double strands that do not have spaces between them on a single rail without nails or double rails. That is what I would like to know how to do.
    Thank you.

  18. Jeffrey Reimen says:

    Hi MCR,
    I have six mid century teak and molded plywood dining chairs that need attention –
    joints reglued/screwed and chair bottoms reupholstered. I live in NYC and would drive down to Baltimore if there’s no place closer. Thanks for your website.

    • MCR says:

      I’m pretty sure there are places near you that can handle a job like that. Try Mod Restoration in Brooklyn for starters.

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